Ibulliance: Over the Camel's Hump
Our travel coach inches into a residential alley between homes with gated walls and metal, green roofs. From down the road, we spot a smiling woman waving and gesturing us towards a cloistered courtyard where savory scents waft from an outdoor, wood-burning stove. Hello, hello! she greets us, and ushers us around the stove for a demonstration in the preparation of Plov—a regioinal dish served at celebrations and momentous events. Jennet, and her sister Merjen along with their mother, Shasenem, are focused on preserving the heritage craft of camel-wool weaving in Turkmenistan, and our Fringe Road adventurers have been invited into their home to learn more about the history of the technique, and enjoy a homemade meal.
The sisters' lovely rapport is both jovial and passionate. We laugh along with their stories of traveling to remote areas to connect with artisans—we experienced some of the same surprises! And we are fascinated by the history and heritage of camel-wool weaving in the region, which had been in decline until the Garlyyeva women decided to revive it. They traveled to villages across Turkmenistan to identify artisans who still had knowledge of the craft, and now employ 15 women artisans in their Unique Camel Wool enterprise.
In the courtyard, one woman shows us how to spin the wool into yarn. Another knits booties, while a third shows us on a small loom how to make the strips of fabric used in home decor and fashion designs. Several travelers try their hands at weaving and are shocked to find that the swift shuttle tossing back and forth across the warp is not nearly as simple as it appears!
This insider experience—being welcomed into an artisan's inner sanctum to share a meal and learn firsthand about their craft—is at the heart of Ibu’s Fringe Road Adventures. This homey and natural atmosphere is a stark contrast to the tall, white marble edifices of Ashgabat’s city center (holding the Guinness World Record for the highest concentration of marble-clad buildings) which are lit at night with running bands of colorful lights, giving it the nickname Ash-vegas. Connecting with the Garlyyeva family brings an appreciation and deeper understanding of the rich culture that still thrives here on the ancient Silk Road route—one that will live in my memory as a favorite travel experience.
Ask any Fringe Road traveler and I bet you’ll hear a similar response as to the invaluable opportunity to learn firsthand from master craftspeople in their homes and studios. Exploring remote regions of the globe is made more powerful by the people with whom we connect along the journey. Creative souls like the Jennet, Merjen, and Shasenem are the bright stars in a constellation of women championing change.
Saygilarimla,
Lasley Steever
Chief Marketing Officer
